Do Lash Extensions DAMAGE the Natural Lashes?
This is the most asked question by lash artists and clients alike. There is an alarming number of lash artists applying extensions that are too long, too heavy and not using proper isolation techniques. The truth is, properly applied and maintained eyelash extensions will NOT damage natural lashes.
The eyelash extension application process is more involved than simply gluing fine plastic to lash hair to make them appear longer or fuller. There is a fine and meticulous art that goes into giving clients the big beautiful and full lashes they love.
Every individual natural eyelash should only have either, a single or fanned eyelash extension attached. As a lash artist, it is your responsibility to be able to identify what stage in the lash cycle each individual natural lash is currently residing, and be able to identify what the proper eyelash extension length and diameter will be for that lash.
Before we get into lengths, weight and lash glue let's talk ISOLATION. This is where the majority of lash artists get tripped up. Here is the hard truth, if isolation is something you aren’t in the process of mastering, you need to drop your tweezers and find a different career. Isolation is the most important part of this service. There should never be two or more lashes glued together. This is one instance where we don’t want “babies” hanging onto their nearby “mamas”. Separate those lashes! We are professionals and let’s act like it; always isolate properly -every day, every client, every lash.
Now that we understand the importance of isolating, let's get into weight, length, and glue. Determining how much weight a natural lash can handle can be tricky and is often debated among lash artists. A client's natural eyelash diameter usually ranges between .03 and a .10, and you really don't want to be placing anything more than two times the diameter of the natural lash.
Length is fairly simple to determine if you follow these rules:
Inner and outer corners should be the same length as their natural lashes
For the middle section of the eye 1-2 mm longer than the natural lash is a safe natural look.
For the middle section of the eye 3-4 mm longer than the natural lash is a safe dramatic look.
It is rare to have clients that need/can handle more than a 12 mm extension.
Last but not least, GLUE! Glue adds additional weight which is why it is so important to know what is too much and what is too little. When applying extensions you should never see glue beading up on your extension. If you do there is a good chance that the extension will cause multiple issues.
Extensions with too much glue have a hard time attaching and you will lose precious time and money by holding that extension there for 3-5 seconds every lash. Not to mention if you release too early with an excess of glue there is a high possibility you will be gluing two or more lashes together, even if you are isolating properly. Once you release that extension with too much wet glue it is going to grab more than just the one lash.
Adhesives lash artist use are made for very specific climates and it is critical you make sure your environment suits your adhesive. If you are in a low humidity climate you need to make sure to have a low humidity glue or invest in a serious humidifier and possibly a space heater. Eyelash extension services need to have a very controlled environment which is why mobile lash services can be tough!
How do you get good at isolation? PRACTICE!!
At the end of the day just remember your clients depend on you to be educated, responsible and most importantly to keep them safe. Follow these guidelines and you will have a happy healthy clientele with amazing retention rates.